I'm beginning to realize that the thing that distinguishes the "artisanal" San Francisco pizza from the "mundane" isn't the toppings (organic, seasonal), the crust (paper-thin, blistery), or the price (high enough to make your parents blanch). It's the wait time. Eating at Pizzeria Delfina still requires you to stand around until you're ravenous. It's the same at Pizzaiolo, Pizzetta 211, and Zero Zero. More than once, I've waded into the crowd at Beretta to try to find the host, had the breath crushed out of me,... More >>>