If you can't tell Locavore's modus operandi from its name, you've been spending too much time in Burger King. Jason Moniz, who made a name for himself as the opening chef at Flora, is doing all the things Michael Pollan recommends — building relationships with farms (listed on the menu), bringing in whole pigs from a farm in the Capay Valley, switching up the menu frequently and thoroughly to capture this very moment in time. "Whole animal cooking," he calls his food on the menu. "Straightforward California cuisine," I'd add. Locavore, which opened a few months ago on Mission Street at the base of Bernal Hill, balances on the boundary between populist and foo-foo. In lunch, its ethics-conscious, omnivorous food is righteously good; its dinner can come off as... More >>>
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