The all-purpose neighborhood Japanese restaurant — you know, the one that specializes in udon, tempura, and California roll combos, and begins with a free cup of miso soup — is finally on the wane. Or rather, it's evolving: Now that tuna maki are available in Safeway cases across the land and trained sushi chefs are in short supply, new restaurateurs are shrinking the raw-fish bar to make room for a robata grill. In place of edamame and futomaki, we're ordering bacon-wrapped mochi and grilled chicken thighs, and if the restaurant calls itself an izakaya, craft beer and... More >>>