If you've grown up thinking of Chinese charcuterie as waxed gizzards and Chinese sausage, you should begin your visit to Dong Bei Mama like I did: with a trip up to the counter, where the owners have laid out a spread of cold meats as varied as the salumi platter at Incanto. The familiar dishes I recognized — plates tiled in thin slices of five-spice beef and whorls of translucent striped pig's ear — but then there were also ovals of ground shrimp wrapped in a millimeter-thick omelet and pale brown rectangles of ground chicken formed around a gold-centered salted egg. The most elaborate was a terrine that seemed as if it were modeled on a Mondrian painting: a square of ground chicken pressed against a rectangle of ground pork, wrapped in an omelet, with two circles of Chinese... More >>>