It's not often that you're greeted at the door of a restaurant by a woman wearing an embroidered crimson hanbok, the traditional Korean dress that splays out from a high-waisted sash to orbit its wearer in a cone of rustling silk. And it's just as rare to walk in to a Korean restaurant in San Francisco whose décor recalls both Prairie School architecture and J. Lo videos: walls bricked up from floor to ceiling in uneven slate, silvery gray accents, pendant lamps wrapped in a thousand glittering crystals. The row of grill tables along the right wall, with their mottled plastic surfaces and inset grills, come from the midrange section of the Korean-restaurant supply catalog, but they blend in, classed up... More >>>