It's striking how often we now rely on restaurants to provide us with a sense of the homemade. Not just "house-made" salumi or pasta, but base ingredients whose production has been industrialized so long we've lost the collective knowledge of how to prepare them at home. Pickles. Butter. Miso paste. Once chores our great-grandparents did throughout the year, now they're professions of authenticity. The more effort the chef puts into each dish, the truer... More >>>
The daily obanzai: Vegetables three ways come in clay cups.