First to come around was a tray of crudités, each of the small plates a minimalist collage: a single baby fennel spear, whirled pyramids of romanesco broccoli, and tiny radishes orbiting a tuft of whipped goat cheese. When we nodded our assent to the waiter — the crudités only cost $4, according to a spindly, letterpress sign sprouting out of the plates — she balanced the edge of the tray on our table in order to flip over our menu and check a box. Before she could move away, we were already craning our necks around to get a closer look at the bowls of potato chips and fish roe that were rolling toward... More >>>