In the 1990s, Sachio Kojima was the acknowledged master of sushi in San Francisco. Kabuto A&S, his Geary Boulevard restaurant, was a destination for off-duty cooks, other sushi chefs, and Japanese students, who'd crowd the bar late into the night. Kojima introduced his Western dévotés to white tuna, monkfish liver, and cod milt. In 2005, Kojima sold the business and moved up to Shasta, seeking a healthier environment for his ailing wife. So it was with more than a little glee two weeks ago that my dining companion rushed from the door... More >>>