Maybe it's inevitable after writing about movies and food on a concurrent basis for a decade or so, but most of the restaurants I've been to lately remind me of a film I've seen five or six times, or one I really ought to see but haven't gotten around to yet. Or of an entire genre of moviemaking, of which this or that particular restaurant is the most visceral example. Sam's, for instance, is like a retro Howard Hawks comedy of manners and three-martini lunches. Julius' Castle is all Cary Grant sophistication, elegant banter, and deferential sommeliers, while xyz has Paul Verhoeven written all over it,... More >>>
Executive Chef Leo Gan with a little of Shanghai 1930's exotica on a plate.