There are certain species of San Francisco restaurant that come and go and rise and fall and expand and contract but never quite go away: sushi bars, Russian delis, Basque hotels, Parisian bistros, dim sum houses, tandoori joints, Irish pubs, antipasti bars, Korean barbecues, taquerias, tapas bars, and like that. But there are other, more precisely calibrated entries in the local restaurant scene that have snuggled into their own particular parameters over decades of evolution. There's the darkly paneled, brass coat-hooked fish house, where tuxedoed waiters snap off the daily specials with no wasted effort, and simply grilled... More >>>