The names Fabrizio Laudati and Alessandro Iacobelli aren't the first to arise when people discuss the city's top restaurateurs. Still, these two fine gentlemen have done wonders toward increasing my love of Italian cookery. I have yet to visit Bella Trattoria, their well-regarded flagship restaurant in the Inner Richmond, but I reviewed Baldoria, their second venture, about a year and a half ago and found that its food achieves a wonderful balance of rusticity and sophistication. (I also believe that the names Laudati and Iacobelli must enter any discussion of the city's finest antipasto plates.) That positive appraisal included this line: "Baldoria just... More >>>