I put some thought into where I wanted to eat my first review meal in the Bay Area. Should it be someplace brand-new, someplace venerable, someplace that had recently reimagined itself? Someplace ethnic, someplace cooking comfort food? Someplace high, someplace low? My friend Janice thought I should write about Zuni Cafe, knowing that it was the local restaurant I'd mention, reflexively, as one of my favorites (right up there with Campanile in Los Angeles, Chez Panisse in Berkeley, and Gramercy Tavern in New York). Janice's son Chester, my 10-year-old godchild with the amazing palate, thought I should try his favorite sushi place in Cole Valley. My parents were eager to see what Hubert Keller was doing at the newly... More >>>