"I screwed myself," I thought, fondly, when I couldn't stop thinking about German food long after I'd written my column last week. I'd eaten so well at the four places I'd gone to (the smoked pork chop at Speisekammer! the German frankfurter at Top Dog! the meatloaf at Schroeder's! the schnitzel at Walzwerk! and three kinds of herring, and three different takes on potato pancakes, and tangy sauerkraut and sharp red cabbage ...) that I hadn't really left any space to confront the reason, I think, that many people respond to my affection for Teutonic fodder by wrinkling their noses and saying, "I don't like German food.... More >>>
Chain of Jewels: The three Chows (including Park
Chow, pictured) share an eclectic menu and a
philosophy of freshness and generosity.