In the bad old days (and they weren't all that long ago), despite the fact that San Francisco is surrounded by water, it was never a sure thing that the fish you would order in a restaurant had any kind of recent acquaintance with the liquid. (Especially, it seemed, in the places lining the eventually-ironically-named Fisherman's Wharf.) An older-and-wiser gentleman added immeasurably to my education by teaching me a short phrase invaluable when ordering fish all over the globe: "What's... More >>>