A.J. Liebling said that the primary requisite for writing about food is a good appetite. Well, that I have, although the daily renewing of that appetite is something of a miracle (or a curse!). But in my line of work one also needs companions, preferably with good appetites themselves. There are people out there who consider food fuel, and are vaguely embarrassed by a voluptuous approach to the table. I remember how disappointed I was as a child when I read that Johnny Carson's response to a question about what he liked to eat was a curt, "I don't live to eat; I eat to live." Food was so important to me, even then, that I'd assumed intelligent, interesting people (read: my heroes) would approach food with respect and excitement, as a source of pleasure as... More >>>
It's Tops: The décor at Chapeau! is
minimal and the space tight, but the
fine French food makes it all feel
warm and cozy.