It was cold so we bundled up to keep warm, saw our breath float into darkness when we stepped outside for fresh air, really fresh air, scents of sea salt and beach wood. This was a year ago. We were in Bolinas, at a place called Smiley's Saloon. We city kids had driven up, booked rooms in B&Bs, driven slowly down dark roads alongside lakes and bays, looking for hand-painted signs, white letters on brown cardboard that said "Quiet Quiet Window Lights." The signs would tell us where to turn, because there were no street signs and landmarks were scarce. It was confusing, but we found the place, parked right in front of the saloon. I remember thinking, "Should we tie the Mazda to... More >>>