As I was driving us to Palio d'Asti on a chilly, windy, rainswept night, I was secretly hoping there'd be lasagna on the menu. A few days before, I'd seen Janice Soprano serve Bobby Baccala a delicious lasagna in her attempt to take the place of his dead wife, killed in a car accident; when Uncle Junior hears the recipe ("sweet sausage along with the beef, and a layer of torn fresh basil leaves under the cheese"), he sniffs, "That's Carmela's lasagna." And he doesn't mean just the recipe: Lazy Janice is trying to pass off Carmela's... More >>>