After three weeks of happily dining on goose liver in Budapest, cevapcici in Belgrade, and mititei in Bucharest, I was thinking about what I really wanted to eat when I came home to the good ol' U. S. of A. When I've been eating abroad and am hungry for straightforward, classic American cooking, a big, thick, juicy, uncompromising grilled steak often springs to mind, but San Francisco is not rich in steakhouses, alas. (And I don't get offered steak at my friends' houses, either, even at backyard barbecues; they prefer to turn out complicated dishes. I may have to break down and purchase... More >>>