La Urbana is trying. And that's something for a restaurant that's inspired so much hand-wringing about what is happening to the Divisadero corridor. It's upscale, ambitious, high-concept Mexican cuisine, with a sleek urban feel and high prices to match. The whole thing could have felt like a cynical, commercial enterprise; instead, it gives the impression that someone in the kitchen is clearly cooking with heart. There are a lot of dishes that are almost great and a few glimmers of brilliance. With tighter service, a better-edited menu, and a more egalitarian price-to-portion ratio, La Urbana could grow into a good, interesting restaurant, one that deserves a place on Divisadero no matter its slick trappings. As of now,... More >>>