I was never planning to review the bar in Ruth's Chris Steakhouse. But I needed a fancy celebratory dinner on short notice, the local restaurants I tried were booked, and I've always liked Ruth's Chris's ungainly name and New Orleans history. I don't know why feminist scholars haven't held Ruth Fertel — who acted against the advice of every man in her life and learned how to butcher cows by hand in order to turn a failed local steakhouse into an international dining powerhouse — up as a paragon of... More >>>