In Cooking Dirty: A Story of Life, Sex, Love and Death in the Kitchen (Farrar, Straus and Giroux, $26.00) Jason Sheehan rolls and ties an autobiographical narrative of a life spent toiling in the lower regions of food. Sheehan is resto critic for Westword, the Denver alt weekly and SF Weekly sister pub. His memoir ia a double dip into testosterone mash, stirred up with the gritty glamour of line work (it pays overt homage to Anthony Bourdain's Kitchen Confidential). You damn near catch a whiff o