Moira Hodgson's It Seemed Like a Good Idea at the Time: My Adventures in Life and Food (Nan A. Talese/Doubleday, $24.95) might have been subtitled The Education of a Restaurant Critic. The author's addition to an ever-expanding list of food memoirs will surprise (and probably charm) anyone unfamiliar with her New York Observer food reviews. Daughter of an English diplomat-cum-spy, Hodgson grew up in Egypt, Beirut, Stockholm, and Saigon as well as England, along the way feasting on both native co