Paul TrapaniYou gotta love Michael Mina: Nobody in this town does high concept with such downright drama. How about a mashup of old French trains, New American cooking, and global wines? SF Weekly food critic Meredith Brody rides the vin express at RN74 (301 Mission at Beale) this week, holding on through a rickety series of dishes from French Laundry alum Jason Berthold that, thankfully perhaps, had absolutely zilch do with the French rail service. Throw in an unhelpful sommelier, and it turns
Paul TrapaniRN74: Sworn enemy of democracy?Tom Robbins once wrote: "Columbus discovered America, Jefferson invented it, Lincoln unified it, Goldwyn mythologized it, and Kroc Big Mac'd it. It could have been an omniscient computer that provided this land with its prevailing ambiance, it might have been an irresistible new weapons system, a political revolution, an art movement, or some gene-altering drug. Isn't it just a little bit wonderful that it was a hamburger?" In September's burger-
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