I just got back from a ten-day road trip through the South, and my favorite city by far was Memphis. That town has so much musical and political history, not to mention the best soul food I've had in, um, ever (fried catfish and candied sweet potatoes and corn bread and collard greens? After a sermon from Reverend Al Green? Bring it on.). I bring all this up because one of the many music related pit-stops you're practically required to hit in Memphis is the Stax Museum of American Soul Music, a