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  • Article

    In Full Swing - Baldoria

    I've never met a depressed Italian waiter. Granted, I've never been to Italy, but I've encountered at least a hundred Italian waiters over the years and have yet to detect a melancholy soul among them. I've met generous Italian waiters who plied me w...

    by Greg Hugunin on November 8, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - Hissy Fits and Harangues

    Mr. Bitter Remember Mark Miller? The man who was supposed to show San Francisco what good food was when he opened the short-lived Loongbar? Well, Harry spotted Mr. Miller at Delfina, dining with James Ormsby, founding chef at Bruno's and executive ch...

    by Harry Coverte on November 8, 2000
  • Article

    Social Grace - Old Friends, New Friends, Cheap Friends, True Friends

    Dear Social Grace, Here's the scenario: I belong to an outdoor-activity club for single people. A few of us from the club were invited to a surprise birthday party for one of our members -- to be held at an upscale Italian restaurant. I was able to ...

    by Social Grace on November 8, 2000
  • Article

    Package Tour - Roy's

    Of all the Hawaiis I've come to know during six trips to the islands, I'm most familiar with two of them. On the one hand, you have the relatively untouched Hawaii of soaring cliffs and lush, incredible jungles, of brilliant coral reefs, perfect, gol...

    by Greg Hugunin on November 1, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - A Bad Mix

    Must Have Been a Dirty Ice Cube Here's hoping that you are fully recovered after seeing Eddie Vedder and Pearl Jam at Shoreline this Halloween. For those not yet recovered, Halloween was last night. Remember the last time Pearl Jam was supposed to ...

    by Harry Coverte on November 1, 2000
  • Article

    Social Grace - The Sound of Idiots

    Dear Social Grace, My boyfriend and I love live music, but we've run into a recurring problem lately. We buy our tickets in advance, wait eagerly for the night of the concert to come, enjoy a nice meal, and finally settle in to see the show. And the...

    by Social Grace on November 1, 2000
  • Article

    Bye-Bye Bourbon Street - Cajun Pacific

    When I first visited New Orleans back in 1987 I got a horrible sunburn and then I got mugged. Since then I've been back five times. There's no escaping New Orleans' enveloping tenacity; it imprints itself on you. Luckily, there are recourses availabl...

    by Matthew Stafford on October 25, 2000
  • Article

    Cheery Confusion - Il Porcellino

    As happens to all of us from time to time, my friend Barrie was feeling a tad ... blue. There were reasons for this, of course, although she probably wouldn't appreciate my detailing them here. So I'll make something up. What happened was, Barrie's c...

    by Greg Hugunin on October 25, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - Mingling With the Famous

    So That's How You Do It Though not an old dog yet, Harry has found he can still learn new tricks. A foray into cooking school -- courtesy of the Sur La Table Culinary Programs -- proved much less humbling than one would expect. Harry not only brush...

    by Harry Coverte on October 25, 2000
  • Article

    Social Grace - Latecomers vs. Clock-watchers

    Dear Social Grace, I wonder if you could define "fashionably late" for me. I'm writing because I don't know if I have rude friends of if I'm just out of touch with modern standards of politeness. When I host dinner at my house, I have to factor in a...

    by Social Grace on October 25, 2000
  • Article

    A Welcome Homecoming - Jianna

    Recently, I spent 2 1/2 weeks traveling through Greece, a land of stone, sun, aquamarine seas, and nights that caress the skin like warm, electric silk. It took about seven seconds for me to realize that 2 1/2 weeks isn't long enough to savor the joy...

    by Greg Hugunin on October 18, 2000
  • Article

    Modern Classic - Jardinire

    In its own fluidly cosmopolitan way, Jardinire compiles and reinterprets what might be called culinary San Francisco's greatest hits. The restaurant is housed in an elegantly refurbished old brick build- ing not unlike the abodes of mc2, Globe, an...

    by Matthew Stafford on October 18, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - Handoffs

    Passing the Spoon Anne Gingrass, chef/owner of the upscale Hawthorne Lane, has turned in her toque and tasting spoon. She will be handing her culinary tradition of Asian-influenced American food over to Bridget Batson, her 30-year-old sidekick in t...

    by Harry Coverte on October 18, 2000
  • Article

    Social Grace - The Art of the Swift Subject Change

    Dear Social Grace, I was having dinner with some co-workers at a restaurant. The restaurant was packed, and tables were right next to each other. One man from our table started to tell a story about bodily functions in gory detail. His voice was so ...

    by Social Grace on October 18, 2000
  • Article

    Say Cheesecake - The Cheesecake Factory

    "The only great party," Groucho Marx once said, "is a boy and a girl and a cheesecake." Indeed. It's a wondrous thing, is cheesecake: creamy and cohesive and tart and sweet at once, the stuff of urban legend, the grandest culinary offspring of Jewish...

    by Matthew Stafford on October 11, 2000
  • Article

    "Q" Is for Comfort - Q

    My friend Leah hit somewhat of a rough stretch. For one thing, she had far too much work to do (a chronic condition). For another, she and her boyfriend broke up. Then, she got a sweet little note from her landlord informing her that -- surprise! -- ...

    by Greg Hugunin on October 11, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - Give Till It Hurts

    Bring the Checkbook I'm told that if you eat well for a good cause the calories don't count. That should come in handy this weekend when Gail Defferari -- the force behind both the Universal Cafe and the dining room at XYZ -- hosts the third annual...

    by Harry Coverte on October 11, 2000
  • Article

    Social Grace - Hits and Mrs.

    Dear Social Grace, If I were introduced to Jada Pinkett Smith (actress and wife of entertainer Will Smith), would I address her as Ms. or Mrs.? And would it be Ms. Pinkett Smith, Ms. Smith, or Ms. Pinkett? I wouldn't want to get off on the wrong foo...

    by Social Grace on October 11, 2000
  • Article

    Until We Eat Again - Cafe Monk

    My friend Barrie is moving from San Francisco to Covina. Yes, that's an utterly incredible statement, and about as easy for me to swallow as a fist-sized lump of coal, because Covina is somewhere east of Los Angeles, and a long, long way from here. ...

    by Greg Hugunin on October 4, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - No Such Thing as Bad Publicity?

    Say, You're Welcome Good news from Magnet Communications, PR flacks for my friends over at the Black Cat. In a recent e-mail from Magnet, the sender wrote, "You'll be interested to know that business is up at the Black Cat since your column last we...

    by Harry Coverte on October 4, 2000
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From the Print Edition

Just the Crust: Laying the Foundation for New S.F. Pizza Shops Just the Crust: Laying the Foundation for New S.F. Pizza Shops

There are two kinds of people when it comes to pizza: those who place an inordinate amount of importance on the crust, and everyone else. I'm squarely in the former… More >>

Food Fight: Which Side of the Bay Makes a Better Burger? Food Fight: Which Side of the Bay Makes a Better Burger?

Chances are, most of us have enjoyed our fair share of fast food burgers, whether they be the objects of a late-night McDonald's craving (don't deny it) or the lauded… More >>

Fog Belt Brewing Company: Hoppy Beers in Santa Rosa Fog Belt Brewing Company: Hoppy Beers in Santa Rosa

Fogbelt Brewing Company has opened the tap, introducing a few new microbrews to the Bay Area craft beer scene. This 2-month-old Santa Rosa brewery and taproom is as much a… More >>

Q&A With Nopa's Wine Director Lulu McAllister Q&A With Nopa's Wine Director Lulu McAllister

Lulu McAllister's curiosity has led her to establish her own ice cream food cart in San Diego, work on a farm in Hawaii, and cover the music scene as a… More >>

Distillations: Improvisations on a Theme at Les Joulins Jazz Bistro Distillations: Improvisations on a Theme at Les Joulins Jazz Bistro

Les Joulins Jazz Bistro makes a great nightcap: Take a date there after the-thing-you're-ostensibly-doing is over, put a cheap drink in her hand, let her be stunned by the live… More >>

Recent Openers April 16-22, 2014

Cantina Verde: FiDi workers have a new lunch option with this healthy, fast-casual Mexican spot. Fill up on burritos, tacos, bowls, or salads with carne asada, chicken, pork, roast veggies,… More >>

Kin Khao: Upscale Thai Tries to Sort Out Its Identity on Your Tongue Kin Khao: Upscale Thai Tries to Sort Out Its Identity on Your Tongue

Location can make or break a restaurant, or so the conventional thinking goes. It's not a factor I consider much in a place like S.F., where high-end food can be… More >>

The Galley: Next-Level Dive Bar Grub The Galley: Next-Level Dive Bar Grub

When I walked into Clooney's Pub at noon, no one at the bar turned around to check the door. The regulars had long since taken their seats at the bar,… More >>

Marla Bakery: A Breakfast Sandwich Worth Waking Up For Marla Bakery: A Breakfast Sandwich Worth Waking Up For

Eggs, bread, and cheese: These are the minimum components to a simple breakfast sandwich. Add a little salty piggy protein or a vegetable for complexity and you're going above and… More >>

SRO: Tiny New FiDi Bar Goes Big on Cocktails SRO: Tiny New FiDi Bar Goes Big on Cocktails

The shift towards ever-more-baroque mixology in ever-tinier surroundings hits a new high in SRO, a cash-only venue-within-a-venue that one may enter from gritty Washburn Alley in SOMA or through Oddjob.… More >>

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