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  • Article

    Lan of the Lost

    It's hard to know what to make of Bistro Lan. Two terrific, well-run restaurants have failed at 2299 Van Ness in the last couple of years: Bella Luna and Pair. Let's just say it would be ironic if Bistro Lan were the one to succeed. The word for th...

    by Paul Adams on April 5, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - The Crowd Mentality; Spring Fashion Part 2; In a Handbasket

    The Crowd Mentality I prefer to dine in twos and fours. Gathering a big group of my friends together at the same time at a restaurant has proven to be a hassle in the past, so I choose to avoid it. If you think it's a pain on your end, you can imagin...

    by Harry Coverte on April 5, 2000
  • Article

    Fanning the Flames

    One night I had a few too many cocktails and told my girlfriend I loved her. This was, as she pointed out, a ploy to get out of driving her home ("Stay with me tonight... I love you!"), but still, I'd already been contemplating the issue for some tim...

    by Greg Hugunin on March 29, 2000
  • Article

    Everything Old Is Old Again

    We were standing in the foyer of the restaurant waiting for an opportunity to present ourselves to the maitre d' while the addled lady in front of us proceeded with a story she had begun spinning several minutes earlier and had given no indication of...

    by Matthew Stafford on March 29, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - Mommy, What's a Harry?; Harry's Spring Fashion Preview, Spills and Thrills

    Mommy, What's a Harry? Dear Harry, How did you get hired at the Weekly? Your column is the most vapid waste of space I have seen in either of the weekly rags. Are you a food critic or a gossip columnist? Maybe there's less difference than I though...

    by Harry Coverte on March 29, 2000
  • Article

    South and West

    "There is no soul food in San Francisco." The declarative sentence, crisp, flat, and final, was uttered with no little satisfaction by my friend and fellow omnivore Jesse, whose roots and taste buds are steeped in the rich red earth of Georgia and wh...

    by Matthew Stafford on March 22, 2000
  • Article

    Plus -a Change

    For years, Nadine's was a quiet favorite of the Glenview neighborhood of Oakland. Recently, though, it has metamorphosed into Sophie's, operating under the guidance of new chef/owner Alexander Baccarat, who worked with the owner of Nadine's and seems...

    by Paul Adams on March 22, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - Open and Shut, The Theater of Life, Pop Tops and Pull Tabs, Zinful

    Open and Shut If you've driven up Franklin recently, you probably have noticed the eye-catching new restaurant at Oak Street. The classy little room is the home of Paul Kavouksorian's Paul K. Mr. K and his chef, Rick Eldan of Alta Plaza, are offer-...

    by Harry Coverte on March 22, 2000
  • Article

    The Man Who Came to Dinner - Carol Queen

    I run by it almost every day. The storefront at 1210 Valencia, that is. And no matter how lost I am in the minutia of my own existence I always look up to catch the unique brand of smiles on the customers slipping out the door. They're mostly women, ...

    by Barry Levine on March 22, 2000
  • Article

    Hog Heaven

    There's an old joke about a GI who was stuck in an Italian prison camp for two years: "Well, at least he ate well." The punch line doesn't work if you substitute any other national adjective for "Italian." There's no sociologically savvy guffaw if th...

    by Matthew Stafford on March 15, 2000
  • Article

    Voil! Viola.

    Bistro Viola is the kind of bistro you wish were right on your block. Of course, if you do happen to live by Bistro Viola, you're doing pretty well: You probably get your bread fresh at Acme and your wine from Kermit Lynch, while REI takes care of al...

    by Paul Adams on March 15, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - From the Bleachers, The Great Debate, Star-ing

    From the Bleachers Have you been by to check out the stadium yet? They're charging $10 for a tour of the place! Ten bucks to admire the pristine pissoirs at our new stadium? That seems ridiculous (that's the first strike), especially since you can ge...

    by Harry Coverte on March 15, 2000
  • Article

    Intergalactic Planetary

    One of the most memorable episodes from the Superman comic books I devoured as a kid was when a troupe of touring spacemen set up a sort of extraterrestrial circus just outside Metropolis and invited the local Earthlings to stop by for a little three...

    by Matthew Stafford on March 8, 2000
  • Article

    Around the World

    While working as a translator in the oil fields of Kazakhstan, my friend Olga, who is Russian, was witness to a peculiar ritual. Among the Kazakhs, whose hearts are said to be wide open, like the steppe, business is often a social rite and hospitalit...

    by Greg Hugunin on March 8, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - ... and the Winner Is, ...Getchyer Peanuts, Wagging Tongues, Celebrity Meat

    ... and the Winner Is ... Harry rubbed shoulders with all sorts of local restaurant luminaries at the first annual Restaurant Marketing 2000 Symposium sponsored by Susie Biehler and Co. at the Nikko. Seminars included discussions on concept and brand...

    by Harry Coverte on March 8, 2000
  • Article

    The Man Who Came to Dinner - Tom Ammiano

    Back in December our little mayoral write-in runoff prompted some local speculation. Could America's first openly gay almost-mayor actually be an in-the-closet ... vegetarian? On behalf of the public's right to know, and in hopes of bolstering To...

    by Barry Levine on March 8, 2000
  • Article

    Silver Anniversary

    "This is just like Glendale. Pasadena." The recent transplant from Southern California steered the Olds around the general vicinity of Oakland's Piedmont district, searching for a parking place: the quest that unites Californians north and south. Too...

    by Matthew Stafford on March 1, 2000
  • Article

    Leaving the American Sector

    Walzwerk is a tiny establishment, tucked into the little space in which the exquisite Tandoor E Taj flourished so briefly. It's billed as an East German restaurant, and it is only somewhat far-fetched to claim that East Germany's 40 years of semi-iso...

    by Paul Adams on March 1, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - Skye's the Limit, Spinnin' Wheel, Bonjour!, Harry's Helpful Hints (Numbers 510, 650, and 925)

    Skye's the Limit George Karpaty and the boys behind Backbeat, Santa Clara's most popular nightclub (is there more than one?), have opened their brand-spanking-new spacious party room at the old Stage Door Theater at 420 Mason. Dubbed Ruby Skye, the c...

    by Harry Coverte on March 1, 2000
  • Article

    Mixed Greens

    You don't usually see come-ons as sleek and downtown as Nasturtium when you're out in the Richmond trolling for draft Guinness and piroshki. After all, its setting is a neighborhood of one-family delicatessens, two-screen movie theaters, and three-st...

    by Matthew Stafford on February 23, 2000
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From the Print Edition

Food Fight: Which Side of the Bay Makes a Better Burger? Food Fight: Which Side of the Bay Makes a Better Burger?

Chances are, most of us have enjoyed our fair share of fast food burgers, whether they be the objects of a late-night McDonald's craving (don't deny it) or the lauded… More >>

Fog Belt Brewing Company: Hoppy Beers in Santa Rosa Fog Belt Brewing Company: Hoppy Beers in Santa Rosa

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Q&A With Nopa's Wine Director Lulu McAllister Q&A With Nopa's Wine Director Lulu McAllister

Lulu McAllister's curiosity has led her to establish her own ice cream food cart in San Diego, work on a farm in Hawaii, and cover the music scene as a… More >>

Distillations: Improvisations on a Theme at Les Joulins Jazz Bistro Distillations: Improvisations on a Theme at Les Joulins Jazz Bistro

Les Joulins Jazz Bistro makes a great nightcap: Take a date there after the-thing-you're-ostensibly-doing is over, put a cheap drink in her hand, let her be stunned by the live… More >>

Recent Openers April 16-22, 2014

Cantina Verde: FiDi workers have a new lunch option with this healthy, fast-casual Mexican spot. Fill up on burritos, tacos, bowls, or salads with carne asada, chicken, pork, roast veggies,… More >>

The Galley: Next-Level Dive Bar Grub The Galley: Next-Level Dive Bar Grub

When I walked into Clooney's Pub at noon, no one at the bar turned around to check the door. The regulars had long since taken their seats at the bar,… More >>

Marla Bakery: A Breakfast Sandwich Worth Waking Up For Marla Bakery: A Breakfast Sandwich Worth Waking Up For

Eggs, bread, and cheese: These are the minimum components to a simple breakfast sandwich. Add a little salty piggy protein or a vegetable for complexity and you're going above and… More >>

SRO: Tiny New FiDi Bar Goes Big on Cocktails SRO: Tiny New FiDi Bar Goes Big on Cocktails

The shift towards ever-more-baroque mixology in ever-tinier surroundings hits a new high in SRO, a cash-only venue-within-a-venue that one may enter from gritty Washburn Alley in SOMA or through Oddjob.… More >>

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