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  • Article

    Side Dish - Stick a Cork in It, Buzzed, The Breakfast Club, and Late Night

    Stick a Cork in It One issue I haven't seen addressed in the recent slew of articles on the wine side of the business is the corkage fee. Not a night goes by that I don't observe at least one party of diners entering a restaurant with a bottle of win...

    by Harry Coverte on November 24, 1999
  • Article

    The Man Who Came to Dinner - Greg Kihn

    David drove a Plymouth Duster. Puke yellow. Seventy-one or '72, I think. On a good day, and with the right amount of pleading, this was my ride to the mall or the movies. The bus was usually my ride back. It was New Jersey, 1981, and playing over the...

    by Barry Levine on November 24, 1999
  • Article

    Battle Sushi

    There is nothing on this Earth that I adore more than sushi, or just about any seafood prepared in the tradition of the land of the rising sun. In fact, I have two theories on the matter: that 1) raw, fresh fish is a perfect thing in itself, and, lik...

    by Greg Hugunin on November 17, 1999
  • Article

    Dinner (or Not) and a Show

    My first exposure to jazz was in the form of a Fats Waller record titled Don't Let It Bother You. I was 10 years old, on the brink of God knew what, and the titular sentiment was deeply reassuring. Music had tantalized my eardrums in the past, but th...

    by Matthew Stafford on November 17, 1999
  • Article

    Side Dish - Party.com, Rim Style, Arriba!, Peel Me a Grape, Royal Flush (Continued)

    Party.com 15 Romolo and Fuse, two of the hippest and newest, have decided to put the old-fashioned pastime of getting drunk in North Beach on the Web. Now you can bid for a New Year's Eve party at one of these lovely joints on eBay. "This way, we let...

    by Harry Coverte on November 17, 1999
  • Article

    20th Century Limited

    North by Northwest has just been rereleased in a crisp new print that only enhances the adventures of protagonist Roger O. Thornhill as he traverses the United States of America. The movie is Alfred Hitchcock's wittiest excursion into espionage, a sh...

    by Matthew Stafford on November 10, 1999
  • Article

    Now Playing

    Foreign Cinema is in the Mission, but seems reluctant to admit it. After you debark from your silver Grand Cherokee, you pass through shiny steel doors and file down a long, stark corridor, at the far end of which a large man in a uniform checks your...

    by Paul Adams on November 10, 1999
  • Article

    Side Dish - Happy Birthday to Me, The Magic Number, Hello Dolly, Correction

    Happy Birthday to Me My mother told me, "If you don't have anything nice to say ...." You know how the rest of that goes, and as readers of this space are aware, I didn't pay much attention. Why the personal reverie and nostalgic pandering? It's Side...

    by Harry Coverte on November 10, 1999
  • Article

    The Man Who Came to Dinner - Science-fiction writers

    Get a load of this: Early last Saturday evening, while flipping back and forth between a thrilling PBS documentary on the life of the American cow and a rerun marathon of MTV's Road Rules, I picked up my phone to find myself the recipient of what at ...

    by Barry Levine on November 10, 1999
  • Article

    Hospitality's Sweet

    People have been cooking for other people ever since some unnamed caveman dropped a bit of woolly mammoth into the campfire, passed it to the guy next to him, and said, "Hey, check it out." The victual revolution thus sparked was incremental yet a...

    by Matthew Stafford on November 3, 1999
  • Article

    The Taste of Change

    The Tenderloin, historically San Francisco's most vice-ridden neighborhood, is also, perhaps, its most tolerant and diverse community. It's a home to seniors and children, to people of every race and nationality, to those who have fallen on hard time...

    by Greg Hugunin on November 3, 1999
  • Article

    Side Dish - Ouch!, Rat and Raven, The Dirty Boulevard, Who Cut the ...?, Star-ing

    Ouch! OK, this is the last you'll hear from me for a while on the hot new JohnFrank. Went in for a Pearl martini the other night and ended up with a spanking. Nine dollars for a martini? Ouch! The only other place I've paid such ridiculous prices is ...

    by Harry Coverte on November 3, 1999
  • Article

    The Man Who Came to Dinner - Will Durst

    Sometimes, one of the more challenging aspects of being The Man Who Came to Dinner is actually getting yourself in -- to dinner. Believe it or not, not every local celebrity is anxious to have yours truly belly up to his or her breakfast nook. Po...

    by Barry Levine on November 3, 1999
  • Article

    Livin' La Dolce Vita

    The curmudgeon celebrated his birthday last week with a dozen of his closest friends, and I was the designated restaurant-picker. "Well," I said, "I know a lot of restaurants that annoy the guy." The parameters I had to work within were even narro...

    by Matthew Stafford on October 27, 1999
  • Article

    Panem et Circenses

    3 Ring is, yes, a circus-themed restaurant, recently opened in the space vacated by Val 21. It seems to get more than its share of the accidental crowd -- the "Ooh, haven't seen this place before" drop-ins, along with the "It'll never be as good as...

    by Paul Adams on October 27, 1999
  • Article

    Side Dish - Special Sauce, Dear Michael, Leviathan, Sold Upstream, A League of Their Own, and Royal Flush

    Special Sauce No, that wasn't a couple of old drag queens being filmed flipping burgers at Hamburger Mary's. Jacques Pepin and Julia Child (she's a favorite of cross-dressers the world over) put on aprons and fired up the grill at the city's oldest a...

    by Harry Coverte on October 27, 1999
  • Article

    The Man Who Came to Dinner - John Warren and Unconditional Theatre

    Raise your hand if you remember the Greensboro Massacre of '79. Me neither. Now, how about the Iranian Hostage Crisis? Aha. And therein lies a powerfully clear, if overly simplified, demonstration of the power of the press. On November 3, 197...

    by Barry Levine on October 27, 1999
  • Article

    Several Jugs of Wine and Thou

    It's simple: A bunch of grapes feels the pull of gravity and falls to the ground, breaking its skins in the process. It's sunny out, the weather's warm, and the yeast in the atmosphere mixes it up with the sugar in the grapes until the juices ferment...

    by Matthew Stafford on October 20, 1999
  • Article

    The Thai of Your Life

    It took a while to realize just how deeply Basil had screwed me. I was having dinner with a friend at another Thai restaurant. Not a fabulous one, such as Marnee Thai, but a good one, or at least an adequate one, featuring your standard curries, lemo...

    by Greg Hugunin on October 20, 1999
  • Article

    Side Dish - Flash in the Pan, One Hand Clapping, Open and Shut, The Wading Pool

    Flash in the Pan Has San Francisco finally reached restaurant saturation point? I mean, you can only spend so much of your money and time on food and the dining experience, right? This last week saw the premature and unexpected closing of not one, bu...

    by Harry Coverte on October 20, 1999
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From the Print Edition

Just the Crust: Laying the Foundation for New S.F. Pizza Shops Just the Crust: Laying the Foundation for New S.F. Pizza Shops

There are two kinds of people when it comes to pizza: those who place an inordinate amount of importance on the crust, and everyone else. I'm squarely in the former… More >>

Food Fight: Which Side of the Bay Makes a Better Burger? Food Fight: Which Side of the Bay Makes a Better Burger?

Chances are, most of us have enjoyed our fair share of fast food burgers, whether they be the objects of a late-night McDonald's craving (don't deny it) or the lauded… More >>

Fog Belt Brewing Company: Hoppy Beers in Santa Rosa Fog Belt Brewing Company: Hoppy Beers in Santa Rosa

Fogbelt Brewing Company has opened the tap, introducing a few new microbrews to the Bay Area craft beer scene. This 2-month-old Santa Rosa brewery and taproom is as much a… More >>

Q&A With Nopa's Wine Director Lulu McAllister Q&A With Nopa's Wine Director Lulu McAllister

Lulu McAllister's curiosity has led her to establish her own ice cream food cart in San Diego, work on a farm in Hawaii, and cover the music scene as a… More >>

Distillations: Improvisations on a Theme at Les Joulins Jazz Bistro Distillations: Improvisations on a Theme at Les Joulins Jazz Bistro

Les Joulins Jazz Bistro makes a great nightcap: Take a date there after the-thing-you're-ostensibly-doing is over, put a cheap drink in her hand, let her be stunned by the live… More >>

Recent Openers April 16-22, 2014

Cantina Verde: FiDi workers have a new lunch option with this healthy, fast-casual Mexican spot. Fill up on burritos, tacos, bowls, or salads with carne asada, chicken, pork, roast veggies,… More >>

Kin Khao: Upscale Thai Tries to Sort Out Its Identity on Your Tongue Kin Khao: Upscale Thai Tries to Sort Out Its Identity on Your Tongue

Location can make or break a restaurant, or so the conventional thinking goes. It's not a factor I consider much in a place like S.F., where high-end food can be… More >>

The Galley: Next-Level Dive Bar Grub The Galley: Next-Level Dive Bar Grub

When I walked into Clooney's Pub at noon, no one at the bar turned around to check the door. The regulars had long since taken their seats at the bar,… More >>

Marla Bakery: A Breakfast Sandwich Worth Waking Up For Marla Bakery: A Breakfast Sandwich Worth Waking Up For

Eggs, bread, and cheese: These are the minimum components to a simple breakfast sandwich. Add a little salty piggy protein or a vegetable for complexity and you're going above and… More >>

SRO: Tiny New FiDi Bar Goes Big on Cocktails SRO: Tiny New FiDi Bar Goes Big on Cocktails

The shift towards ever-more-baroque mixology in ever-tinier surroundings hits a new high in SRO, a cash-only venue-within-a-venue that one may enter from gritty Washburn Alley in SOMA or through Oddjob.… More >>

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