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  • Article

    Dish

    Babying the Baguette There's a new entry in the city's boutique-bread derby: It's an authentic baguette from the Noe Valley Bakery and Bread Co. "It's our first true baguette," says Mary Gassen, who owns the bakery with her husband, Michael....

    by Paul Reidinger on March 19, 1997
  • Article

    Fish for All Seasons - Waiting for the yabbie at Yabbies Coastal Kitchen

    A yabbie is an Australian crawfish that resembles a small blue lobster. So I learned from a brief conversation with the host at Yabbies Coastal Kitchen on Russian Hill, a glorious new seafood restaurant whose menu does not, as yet, include its namesa...

    by Paul Reidinger on March 12, 1997
  • Article

    Dish

    Open ... The local restaurant business can be unsentimental and even brutal, but it also spins webs of continuity that can seem nearly like family ties. Example: the Moa Room, a restaurant opening April 23 in the storefront space at 22nd Street a...

    by Paul Reidinger on March 5, 1997
  • Article

    Singing for Your Supper - Mixing arias and pastas at La Traviata

    A lot of restaurants have atmosphere, but no restaurant I've ever been in -- here or anywhere -- can match La Traviata's gorgeously obsessive ambience. In a city mad about opera, the place is the ultimate theme restaurant. Its walls are crowded with ...

    by Paul Reidinger on March 5, 1997
  • Article

    Dish

    Little Bites Maybe one reason tapas have become so popular -- too popular? -- is that the word is easy and fun to say, even for Anglophones. Bocaditos, the title of Reed Hearon's new cookbook (Chronicle Books, $15.95) is more of a mouthful, but t...

    by Paul Reidinger on February 26, 1997
  • Article

    King of the Hill - Perfecting the art of everyday cooking at Garibaldi Cafe

    The worst thing about Garibaldi Cafe, on the northern shoulders of Potrero Hill, is its entryway. It's like a coat closet with a menu posted opposite the door. To the right, a bar; to the left, through curtains, the dining room. Escaping into either ...

    by Paul Reidinger on February 26, 1997
  • Article

    Wine Country - How the PlumpJack Cafe became a fixture

    There are 99 bottles of wine on the wall at PlumpJack Cafe, and then some. Although the restaurant is quite snug by the standards of its gastronomic peers (such as Hawthorne Lane and Mecca), the interior design -- a seductive blend of mocha walls, gl...

    by Paul Reidinger on February 19, 1997
  • Article

    Dish

    Tasting Menus The fourth annual Taste of San Francisco, staged in the Empire Ballroom of the Sir Francis Drake Hotel on Feb. 6, tasted largely of the Mediterranean. And Union Square. Of the nine contributing restaurants (Scala's Bistro, Grand Caf...

    by Paul Reidinger on February 19, 1997
  • Article

    Dish

    Foaming at the Mouth If the microbrewery-restaurant phenomenon is something of a runaway train lately (witness the recent openings of Thirsty Bear and the Beach Chalet), one reason must be the beer. It's better. And that's largely because it's fr...

    by Paul Reidinger on February 12, 1997
  • Article

    A Walk on the Mild Side - Sweet beats heat on Rasoi's Indian menu

    Rasoi, with its high ceilings, lethargic overhead fans, and dreamy soundtrack of sitar music, seems like the sort of place that should be hot and dusty, like much of India itself. (The name means "eat" in Indian.) Instead it's yet another entry on th...

    by Paul Reidinger on February 12, 1997
  • Article

    Dish

    Looking for Trouble A reader, Melissa Graviss, wrote recently to excoriate me as "extremely irresponsible" for suggesting that amateurs might try their hand at collecting mushrooms in some of the East Bay regional parks. Of course there is a diff...

    by Paul Reidinger on February 5, 1997
  • Article

    The Sound and the Fury - Eating to the beat at Eleven

    If there's a happy medium between sepulchral silence and roaring cacophony in restaurant dining rooms, Eleven hasn't found it -- and probably isn't even looking. The place specializes in live music (ensembles perform from a small stage on the mezzani...

    by Paul Reidinger on February 5, 1997
  • Article

    Surf's Up - The Beach Chalet offers beer and an ocean view, with parking

    The far end of Golden Gate Park is an unlikely spot for a restaurant, let alone one with a microbrewery. Yet the Beach Chalet's remote locale -- between the ruined windmills, overlooking Ocean Beach -- has yet to make a dent in the enthusiasm of a ce...

    by Paul Reidinger on January 29, 1997
  • Article

    Dish

    Fancy Feast Judging from the exhibits at the recent Fancy Food Show (which pretty much filled up the Moscone Center Jan. 19-21), the coming year should be rich in biscotti and specialty coffee. Every other booth seemed to be brewing up espresso, ...

    by Paul Reidinger on January 29, 1997
  • Article

    Dish

    The Dirt on Kitchenette The people behind Kitchenette -- the new on-line magazine about Bay Area food, published from a Twin Peaks address -- were, understandably, unable to think up something better than "Dish" as the name of their gossip column...

    by Paul Reidinger on January 22, 1997
  • Article

    Blue Moon - The food shines while the service flickers at Bella Luna

    There's something discreetly schizophrenic about Bella Luna. The Italian food is superior: dish after dish executed with splendor and verve by a kitchen that clearly believes in what it's doing and knows how to do it. The food matters a lot. But...

    by Paul Reidinger on January 22, 1997
  • Article

    Alice's Restaurant - Hot Chinese on real china

    There are so many arty touches, big and small, at Alice's that the Chinese food itself could easily become an afterthought. The interior design is more like that of a museum than a restaurant, from the fresh white walls and handsome new oak floors to...

    by Paul Reidinger on January 15, 1997
  • Article

    Dish

    The Nose Knows You walk into a decent restaurant and order, say, cioppino. It's a local thing, and at this time of year there's plenty of good fresh crab. (Weather permitting.) But when the dish comes, the cracked crab emanates a foul odor of amm...

    by Paul Reidinger on January 15, 1997
  • Article

    Dish

    It's the Cheese A new book, Cheese Primer by Steven Jenkins (Workman, $16.95), while unmistakably Europhilic, has some unsnobby things to say about California cheese. Several locally produced goat's-milk cheeses, in particular, earn Jenkins' prai...

    by Paul Reidinger on January 8, 1997
  • Article

    Ready or Not - Early success settles on the Inner Sunset's Avenue 9

    Success, especially if sudden, can be a trial by fire for a restaurant. Favorable early press -- such as has lately been visited on Avenue 9, a mod, modest bistro in the Inner Sunset -- often means big crowds, waits for tables, the exhaustion of some...

    by Paul Reidinger on January 8, 1997
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From the Print Edition

Food Fight: Which Side of the Bay Makes a Better Burger? Food Fight: Which Side of the Bay Makes a Better Burger?

Chances are, most of us have enjoyed our fair share of fast food burgers, whether they be the objects of a late-night McDonald's craving (don't deny it) or the lauded… More >>

Fog Belt Brewing Company: Hoppy Beers in Santa Rosa Fog Belt Brewing Company: Hoppy Beers in Santa Rosa

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Q&A With Nopa's Wine Director Lulu McAllister Q&A With Nopa's Wine Director Lulu McAllister

Lulu McAllister's curiosity has led her to establish her own ice cream food cart in San Diego, work on a farm in Hawaii, and cover the music scene as a… More >>

Distillations: Improvisations on a Theme at Les Joulins Jazz Bistro Distillations: Improvisations on a Theme at Les Joulins Jazz Bistro

Les Joulins Jazz Bistro makes a great nightcap: Take a date there after the-thing-you're-ostensibly-doing is over, put a cheap drink in her hand, let her be stunned by the live… More >>

Recent Openers April 16-22, 2014

Cantina Verde: FiDi workers have a new lunch option with this healthy, fast-casual Mexican spot. Fill up on burritos, tacos, bowls, or salads with carne asada, chicken, pork, roast veggies,… More >>

The Galley: Next-Level Dive Bar Grub The Galley: Next-Level Dive Bar Grub

When I walked into Clooney's Pub at noon, no one at the bar turned around to check the door. The regulars had long since taken their seats at the bar,… More >>

Marla Bakery: A Breakfast Sandwich Worth Waking Up For Marla Bakery: A Breakfast Sandwich Worth Waking Up For

Eggs, bread, and cheese: These are the minimum components to a simple breakfast sandwich. Add a little salty piggy protein or a vegetable for complexity and you're going above and… More >>

SRO: Tiny New FiDi Bar Goes Big on Cocktails SRO: Tiny New FiDi Bar Goes Big on Cocktails

The shift towards ever-more-baroque mixology in ever-tinier surroundings hits a new high in SRO, a cash-only venue-within-a-venue that one may enter from gritty Washburn Alley in SOMA or through Oddjob.… More >>

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