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Town and Out One exceptional meal is overshadowed by two subsequent setbacks
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February 04, 2004
I'm thrilled when I walk into Town Hall, a little early for my dinner with David and Jeffrey, friends in town for a few days from New York.... More >>
Hot Stuff The best Sichuan food in the Bay Area comes from a modest place in Albany
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January 28, 2004
When I lived in Southern California and would visit my family in the Bay Area, friends in L.A. and N.Y. always wanted to hear about the new hot... More >>
Just Like Old Times We can't believe how inexpensive the good food is at Watercress
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January 21, 2004
There was a time, not that long ago, when the questing diner would head to the Mission District for nothing edgier than a carnitas burrito or a... More >>
Irish Eyes Smiling over the shepherd's pie and a pint of Guinness at Wilde Oscar's
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January 14, 2004
It was on a whim that I drove down to Fort Mason one cold and windy night to attend a reading advertised as a conversation with the renowned... More >>
Feta (Not Quite) Accompli Our second meal isn't as dazzling as our first at a new Greek eatery
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January 07, 2004
"I haven't had a Greek meal since I moved to San Francisco," I said to Robert as we drove toward dinner at Estia, a new Greek place on Grant.... More >>
Urban Explorer Some of the best things our critic consumed in a year of eating around a constantly evolving town
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December 31, 2003
No two San Franciscans live in the same city. We all create our own metropolises by the patterns we trace, the choices we make, the landmarks... More >>
Fish Story Kabuto's new digs are smaller, but its menu is still huge
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December 24, 2003
In everyone's private arsenal of restaurants (the spot you like to go for breakfast in the neighborhood, the best burger place, the celebration... More >>
It's All Good Our critic can't stay away from the buttery pastries and cheesy savories at Tartine
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December 17, 2003
Certain words don't show up in my writing because they set my teeth on edge: "veggies," for instance, or "winners," as in "Other winners were the... More >>
Cheerful Cichetti The sparkling Venetian tapas at Pesce give us a welcome break from rich holiday fare
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December 10, 2003
The most heartwarming sight I've been privy to in ages was that of Stuart, our Thanksgiving host, crouching by the oven, affixing sausages and... More >>
Raise the Bar Given its location, in the midst of the food fantasia that is the Ferry Building, MarketBar should be better
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December 03, 2003
"Know thyself," the saying goes, and one thing I know is that the sensation of peace and calm that some people say they get in church comes over... More >>
Ghee Whiz Perfect double bill: Amber India in Mountain View and Satyajit Ray in Palo Alto
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November 26, 2003
I've been spending two nights a week in India lately, courtesy of the Satyajit Ray film festival at the Stanford Theatre (221 University in Palo... More >>
Piece 'a Pizza The crunchy crust at the venerable Tommaso's still delights us
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November 19, 2003
It started out as kind of a gag, after I stumbled across exactly the book I was looking for as a gift for my baby nephew: First Book of Sushi, a... More >>
The House of Sour Cream Our critic finds Russian food more artful than a Russian painter
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November 12, 2003
I was having trouble forcing myself to go see the Chagall show at SFMOMA. Except for one afternoon decades ago, I've never liked his work -- but... More >>
Country in the City Fried chicken and homemade baked goods taste like the Midwest right here at home
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November 05, 2003
There's one pair of food writers whose career I have always envied: Jane and Michael Stern, the Roadfood authors, whose life together seems to be... More >>
Silver-Screen Suppers A witty and irresistible combination of two of our favorite things
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October 29, 2003
Usually I pick the restaurant where I'm going to dine, and then choose my companions, which isn't as easy and automatic a process as you might... More >>
Am I Blue Characterless chowders and seafood seem at home in the too-casual Blue Mermaid
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October 22, 2003
Hope springs eternal. When I read that the specialty of the Blue Mermaid -- the restaurant in the Argonaut, a new "boutique" hotel in Fisherman's... More >>
The Grill Most Likely Food and setting are both homey and elegant at the charming Fillmore Grill
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October 15, 2003
I didn't have big expectations for our meal when I invited Ron and Dinora to dinner at the new Fillmore Grill, largely because of the... More >>
Hat Trick Intelligent, satisfying French food that's also quite a bargain
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October 08, 2003
A.J. Liebling said that the primary requisite for writing about food is a good appetite. Well, that I have, although the daily renewing of that... More >>
I Am the Eggman Breakfast out -- one of life's little luxuries and great pleasures
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October 01, 2003
I was complaining to Karen about the inevitability of having to wait in line for brunch at my goddaughter's favorite spot, Bette's Oceanview... More >>
Cinema Synergy Combining moviegoing with appropriate meals increases our pleasure
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September 24, 2003
The standard calendar may identify January as the beginning of the year, but on mine it's always been September, and not just because it meant... More >>
Best Mexican Oakland's divine Doña Tomás opens a nifty taqueria in Berkeley
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September 17, 2003
Susan, a friend who'd moved up to the Bay Area from Los Angeles around the same time I did, couldn't stop raving about a Mexican restaurant on... More >>
Eating at the Flea There are bargains in comestibles as well as collectibles to be had at these Sunday markets
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September 10, 2003
There is, to my mind, no finer way to while away a few hours on a Sunday than strolling through a flea market. You're getting fresh air and a... More >>
Meat Heaven Diving into the divine parrillada at Villa del Sol
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September 03, 2003
Robert found the place by Googling around, after a colleague told him that her fiance was from Argentina and was pining away for parrillada. (Who... More >>
Millennium Approaches Our critic tries the vegan way, with mixed results
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August 27, 2003
Let's get this out of the way straight off: I've always been happy with my position in the food chain. I hasten to point out that this position... More >>
The Milky Way In which we troll the warm city for cooling scoops of ice cream
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August 20, 2003
Not that we don't like ice cream when baby, it's cold outside, but this curiously warm summer (which started early and seems bent on disproving... More >>
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From the Print Edition
Bouncer Tempts Fate at Top of the Mark
Let's start with a little history about Top of the Mark, because I rarely lead with facts and I'm feelin' frisky. The hotel was built in 1926 on the site… More >>
Bouncer Seeks Absolution at Locanda
So, like, Locanda is apparently a restaurant. I didn't realize that until I crossed the threshold. Food & Wine listed it as a "must" on Valencia for its cocktails and… More >>
Recent Openers
Dante's Table: This spinoff of Poesia has a Dante's Inferno theme, including a large mural and quotes from the books on the walls. The food is Italian wines and small… More >>
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