Restaurant Reviews

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Fresh Eats: Gobba Gobba Hey Leaves Baking Fresh Eats: Gobba Gobba Hey Leaves Baking
By Tamara Palmer, December 21, 2011
In a lovely essay titled "Never Can Say Goodbye," last week author and food entrepreneur Steven Gdula laid out his decision to end his Gobba... More >>
Jang Soo BBQ: Rethinking Korean Barbecue in Style and Substance Jang Soo BBQ: Rethinking Korean Barbecue in Style and Substance
By Jonathan Kauffman, December 14, 2011
It's not often that you're greeted at the door of a restaurant by a woman wearing an embroidered crimson hanbok, the traditional Korean dress... More >>
Fresh Eats: Burger Urge: An Imperfect Burger That Fits In Perfectly Fresh Eats: Burger Urge: An Imperfect Burger That Fits In Perfectly
By Jonathan Kauffman, December 14, 2011
A few weeks ago, the wooden chrysalis surrounding a former tattoo parlor on Haight and Clayton came down, and Jack Mogannam and Sam Sirhed's... More >>
The Bird and the Breading: Fried Chicken Nights Are Popular Every Day of the Week The Bird and the Breading: Fried Chicken Nights Are Popular Every Day of the Week
By Jonathan Kauffman, December 07, 2011
In 2005, Cookie Monster began treating his obsessive tendencies with Paxil and announced that cookies were now a sometime food, not an anytime... More >>
Fresh Eats: De La Paz Roasters: Cafe Opens Slowly Fresh Eats: De La Paz Roasters: Cafe Opens Slowly
By Noah Sanders, December 07, 2011
Jason Benford's De La Paz Coffee Roasters has existed only in bagged-bean form since 2006. Now the scrappy coffee roaster is making its way into... More >>
Dux: A Chef's Culinary Art Project Explores and Interprets Flavor Dux: A Chef's Culinary Art Project Explores and Interprets Flavor
By Jonathan Kauffman, November 30, 2011
"While some people are calling Dux a pop-up restaurant," says its chef, Eddie Lau, "I think of it as an art project." And indeed, the... More >>
Fresh Eats: Polata Organic: Chef Tenzin's Fare Passes the Vegan Taste Test Fresh Eats: Polata Organic: Chef Tenzin's Fare Passes the Vegan Taste Test
By Laura Beck, November 30, 2011
Polata Organic is a new East Bay restaurant with roots going back over 15 years to the old Organic Cafe in Oakland. A macrobiotic institution,... More >>
With Stefano Restaurant, Guatemalan Pizza Becomes a New Anti-Fusion Meme in San Francisco With Stefano Restaurant, Guatemalan Pizza Becomes a New Anti-Fusion Meme in San Francisco
By Jonathan Kauffman, November 23, 2011
The "Stefano" painted over the awnings of Stefano Restaurant is underlined in a stripe of red, white, and green. The placemats inside are... More >>
Fresh Eats: Cameron Hughes' Lot 300 Cabernet Sauvignon Is a Delicious Bargain Fresh Eats: Cameron Hughes' Lot 300 Cabernet Sauvignon Is a Delicious Bargain
By Ben Narasin, November 23, 2011
There's no schadenfreude required to benefit from the miscalculations of others, or the changing realities of the market — including the wine... More >>
Trace: Rustic Menu Suffers Aesthetic Disconnect with the Dining Room Trace: Rustic Menu Suffers Aesthetic Disconnect with the Dining Room
By Jonathan Kauffman, November 16, 2011
The music — rather, the four-on-the-floor beat — crescendoes as the entrance to Trace nears, courtesy of speakers hidden above the door. The... More >>
Fresh Eats: Off the Grid: Fort Mason Event Goes Into Hibernation Fresh Eats: Off the Grid: Fort Mason Event Goes Into Hibernation
By Tamara Palmer, November 16, 2011
After Friday, Nov. 18, Off the Grid will send its weekly Fort Mason food-truck gathering to hibernate away from the cold and wind for a few... More >>
Umami Burger and the Melt: Science Meets Fast Food with Muddled Results Umami Burger and the Melt: Science Meets Fast Food with Muddled Results
By Jonathan Kauffman, November 09, 2011
The McRib, which zooms through the American media with the regularity of a lesser comet, is back again, trailed as always by a glowing cloud of... More >>
Beijing's FishEye Café Serves Ritual Roasters Coffee Beijing's FishEye Café Serves Ritual Roasters Coffee
By Albert Law, November 09, 2011
Headed to Beijing? Contemplating ways to pack your favorite coffeehouse in your luggage? Save the luggage fee, because Ritual Coffee Roasters is... More >>
Grill House Mediterranean: New Shawarma-and-Pie Shop Sometimes Worth a Visit Grill House Mediterranean: New Shawarma-and-Pie Shop Sometimes Worth a Visit
By Jonathan Kauffman, November 02, 2011
Where you from?" you'll hear the manager of Grill House Mediterranean ask customers when they come up to order. "Saudi Arabia? Yemen?" A fair... More >>
Fresh Eats: Drink of the Week: Moonraker at Bar Agricole Fresh Eats: Drink of the Week: Moonraker at Bar Agricole
By Lou Bustamante, November 02, 2011
The beauty of making cocktails from old recipes is more than the rediscovery of forgotten flavors. It's also in the mysteries that inevitably... More >>
Park Tavern: Casual Dining for the Wealthy Park Tavern: Casual Dining for the Wealthy
By Jonathan Kauffman, October 26, 2011
There's something audacious, and admirable, about installing a mosaic logo in the entrance to your restaurant with the inscription "est. 2011."... More >>
Fresh Eats: SoMa's New Burmese Gourmet Food Truck Fresh Eats: SoMa's New Burmese Gourmet Food Truck
By Jonathan Kauffman, October 26, 2011
Three weeks ago, William Lue put three signs up on the food truck he has rented on Townsend and Fourth. The first, "Burmese Gourmet," he moved... More >>
Leatherneck Steakhouse: Veterans' Club Serves Classic American Fare Leatherneck Steakhouse: Veterans' Club Serves Classic American Fare
By Jonathan Kauffman, October 19, 2011
To get to Leatherneck Steakhouse, which the Marines' Memorial Club barely advertises on its sign, you pass through a lobby decorated with glass... More >>
Fresh Eats: Working in Cafes: How Much Should You Buy? Fresh Eats: Working in Cafes: How Much Should You Buy?
By Jonathan Kauffman, October 19, 2011
This week's etiquette question was voiced by L.T.: How often in an Internet cafe should you buy a new coffee/pastry while you use their Internet... More >>
House of Sisig: Kamayan Dining Creates Homey Atmosphere House of Sisig: Kamayan Dining Creates Homey Atmosphere
By Jonathan Kauffman, October 12, 2011
First came the banana leaves: glossy, dark-green rectangles, cut down to the size of placemats and perpendicularly striped with veins. Our server... More >>
Fresh Eats: Lers Ros: Tom Silargorn Talks on Authentic Thai Fresh Eats: Lers Ros: Tom Silargorn Talks on Authentic Thai
By Alanna Hale, October 12, 2011
Born in Chon Buri, a coastal province about 45 minutes southeast of Bangkok, chef Tom Silargorn learned to cook by his mother's side. Three years... More >>
2G Brasserie's Sushi Chef Doesn't Believe in Lazy Nigiri 2G Brasserie's Sushi Chef Doesn't Believe in Lazy Nigiri
By Jonathan Kauffman, October 05, 2011
Toshio Oguma brought out a container filled with sheets of kombu seaweed, lifted up a leaf, and pulled two translucent slices of fish out to... More >>
Fresh Eats: Patisserie Norina's Japanese Cakes Are Light and None Too Sweet Fresh Eats: Patisserie Norina's Japanese Cakes Are Light and None Too Sweet
By Ben Narasin, October 05, 2011
When I lived in Tokyo, I always felt that dessert wasn't part of the food culture. When dessert was presented at all, it wasn't sweet enough for... More >>
Red Tavern: Inconsistent Quality but Never Boring Meals at Russian Restaurant Red Tavern: Inconsistent Quality but Never Boring Meals at Russian Restaurant
By Jonathan Kauffman, September 28, 2011
Soon after the beef stroganoff and chicken cutlets come to our table, the party in back of Red Tavern and the party in the front of Red Tavern... More >>
Fresh Eats: How Come I Buy a Groupon and Still Pay More? Fresh Eats: How Come I Buy a Groupon and Still Pay More?
By Jonathan Kauffman, September 28, 2011
Last week, SFoodie launched "SF Etiquette," a weekly feature fielding questions about dining out in an era where forks, chopsticks, and iPhones... More >>
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