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Like Mamma Used to Make Viewing The Restaurant gets our critic hungry for old-fashioned red-sauce Italian
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August 13, 2003
I love television. (I used to tell people, in all honesty, that I hadn't watched television before 1994. That got a laugh for maybe three years.... More >>
Sandwich Queen A paean to an easy summer pleasure
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August 06, 2003
There's a lovely little list-as-essay by Bruce Cole titled "A summer manifesto -- sorta ...," a reminder to enjoy the foods of this season while... More >>
If You Knew Sushi The freshest and most unusual fish is the draw at the eccentric Midori Mushi
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July 30, 2003
Everybody who writes about restaurants has had the experience of somebody saying to him, "There's this amazing new place I'll tell you about, but... More >>
Take Me to the Casbah Dreamily enveloped in a fragrant cloud of cumin and orange-flower water at Baraka
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July 23, 2003
I knew I would be hoist with my own petard when I wrote last week that the décor of a restaurant isn't all that important to me. Just not quite... More >>
Monkey Business Full relaxation is achieved with delicious Thai food in an unusually pleasant and stylish setting
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July 16, 2003
Some names are genius: Koh Samui & The Monkey pleased me from the first time I saw it, for a number of reasons. I had no idea what it meant, but... More >>
Absinthe Friends Luxurious provender before a performance -- or instead of one
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July 09, 2003
My friend Glenn, who lives in Santa Barbara but has season tickets to both the San Francisco and Los Angeles operas, called before coming up to... More >>
Double Play Dinner at Acme Chophouse followed by a swell game in the world's most beautiful baseball stadium -- score!
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July 02, 2003
I've always liked baseball: the leisurely pace of the game, the grassy playing field, the uniforms (and the men who wear them), and, last but of... More >>
The Church of Trillin Our critic, an early convert, attends a revival meeting and genuflects at the altar of Shalimar
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June 25, 2003
Over the years, I've met several people of whom I've later said, "If they started a religion, I would join it": Betsey Johnson, my friend Stephen... More >>
Innocence Well-Fed The S.F. Symphony's summer festival of German music sends us in search of sausage, schnitzel, and sauerbraten
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June 18, 2003
When I read that the San Francisco Symphony was mounting a short festival, provocatively titled "Innocence Undone: Wagner, Weill, and the Weimar... More >>
Unterman on Food Our critic falls in love with a local guidebook
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June 11, 2003
In my recent paean to guidebooks, I said that at the very least you need a Zagat, even if you only use it as a phone book or memory-jogger, and... More >>
Urban Explorer A request for an inexpensive and interesting restaurant for a party of eight sends our critic to the books
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June 04, 2003
I couldn't imagine living in a city, any city, without a full complement of guidebooks. And not just restaurant guidebooks (though the absolute... More >>
Cheeseburger Cheeseburger Cheeseburger Trying a burger (or four) at favorite joints old and new
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May 28, 2003
It was way past dinnertime; I was on deadline and working late, and there were the makings of a pretty decent quesadilla in the fridge --... More >>
Readings and Eatings Literary events lead us to the perfect neighborhood restaurant
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May 21, 2003
Looking for a pay phone after attending Amanda Hesser's reading last week at A Clean Well-Lighted Place for Books, I saw that the new Fellini... More >>
Entrez au Jardin A brief encounter with the author of Cooking for Mr. Latte at Jardinière
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May 14, 2003
When a mutual acquaintance suggested at the last minute that I might like to meet with Amanda Hesser during her already-crowded book tour swing... More >>
Habana Good Time Is it the real Cuban soup or merely the Nuevo Latino? Who cares, if it's good!
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May 07, 2003
My friends Adam, Janice, and Chester were excited when they heard that a restaurant called Habana was opening in San Francisco. Determined... More >>
Surreal Meals Dinners we wish we'd eaten, and some we wish we hadn't
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April 30, 2003
Sometimes the meals you remember most vividly are not the best ones -- or even ones you actually consumed. You might shudder every time you walk... More >>
The Trip to Bountiful Where if you don't like a dish, you're not screwed -- you're blessed
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April 23, 2003
Portions are so arbitrary. When you go to a restaurant, you put your hunger into the hands of strangers. Making choices from their menu, devised... More >>
Movie Meals A strategy for eating near the San Francisco International Film Festival
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April 16, 2003
It was with considerable excitement that I contemplated the program for the 46th annual San Francisco International Film Festival. Everything in... More >>
Eating With Lisa Our out-of-town visitor will eat anywhere, as long as it's really good
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April 09, 2003
Lisa was always my best eating partner; she was willing to go anywhere and try anything, as long as I said the magic words: "I'll drive." (We had... More >>
Life During Wartime Watching the motorcycle cops drive by from the Last Supper Club and Fringale
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April 02, 2003
The plan was for my brother to meet me at a movie and then we'd have dinner after. I'd seen everything he wanted to see - Frida, Rabbit-Proof... More >>
The Asian Collection On exhibit: Vietnamese, Cambodian, Korean, and Chinese restaurants
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March 26, 2003
Not that I need an excuse to eat in four different Asian restaurants in a week, especially in San Francisco, but anticipating the opening of the... More >>
Fumbled Catch A new fish restaurant on Market could try harder
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March 19, 2003
In the bad old days (and they weren't all that long ago), despite the fact that San Francisco is surrounded by water, it was never a sure thing... More >>
Worth a Detour Zax Tavern
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March 12, 2003
Without knowing a lot more about the French restaurateur Bernard Loiseau, it seems reckless to ascribe his recent suicide to the seemingly... More >>
The Same River Twice Experiences unparalleled: feasting on grilled meat at Restaurant LuLu
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March 05, 2003
It's rare that I find myself thinking about the French writers the Goncourt brothers twice within 24 hours -- rare, in fact, that I find myself... More >>
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From the Print Edition
Bouncer Tempts Fate at Top of the Mark
Let's start with a little history about Top of the Mark, because I rarely lead with facts and I'm feelin' frisky. The hotel was built in 1926 on the site… More >>
Bouncer Seeks Absolution at Locanda
So, like, Locanda is apparently a restaurant. I didn't realize that until I crossed the threshold. Food & Wine listed it as a "must" on Valencia for its cocktails and… More >>
Recent Openers
Dante's Table: This spinoff of Poesia has a Dante's Inferno theme, including a large mural and quotes from the books on the walls. The food is Italian wines and small… More >>
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