Restaurant Reviews

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Berlin by the Bay Berlin by the Bay
Fine German fare sandwiched between two viewings of the fine German photographs of August Sander
, February 19, 2003
I just got in under the wire to see the amazing Gerhard Richter show at SFMOMA. It was closing within days, and touring the many rooms was so... More >>
Museum of Food Museum of Food
Bringing the galleries of Copia alive, French-style
, February 12, 2003
I hadn't planned on visiting Copia, the year-old American Center for Wine Food & the Arts (as it styles itself), in Napa that day. I wasn't... More >>
Read 'Em and Eat Read 'Em and Eat
Specific hungers are induced by journalism -- and satisfied in short order
, February 05, 2003
I have always been fascinated by the various mechanisms that arouse hunger. There's the whole array of sensory reminders: visual (that beauty... More >>
Antojitos Antics Antojitos Antics
Calvin Trillin and assorted other out-of-town tipsters inspire a round of tacos
, January 29, 2003
It's not really like I need an excuse to go out and spend a day eating around -- it's my job, after all -- but sometimes I do enjoy a nudge in a... More >>
Hail and Farewell Hail and Farewell
Mourning the passing of Gordon's, but encouraged by its sister restaurant, Verbena
, January 22, 2003
I didn't hit town quite like the confused character played by Frank Sinatra in On the Town, who gets into Betty Garrett's taxi and asks her to... More >>
Out of  the Past Out of the Past
Inspired by an S.F.-set film noir series, we haunt the classics
, January 15, 2003
I've always been attracted to the science-fiction mainstay of time travel. In fact, I practice it frequently. Pace H.G. Wells, I employ no... More >>
Sufferin' Succotash Sufferin' Succotash
Exposure to mediocre fare turns our critic philosophical
, January 08, 2003
Once I was at a book reading of two restaurant critics, writers I had read and admired, and an audience member asked a question: "Do you ever get... More >>
Half-Baked Half-Baked
Unexpectedly underwhelmed at Roxanne's
, January 01, 2003
I put some thought into where I wanted to eat my first review meal in the Bay Area. Should it be someplace brand-new, someplace venerable,... More >>
From Smog to Fog From Smog to Fog
Our new critic returns to the city that nourished her
, December 24, 2002
I went to cooking school in Paris. I earned my daily bread by writing about restaurants in Los Angeles, and New York, and then Los Angeles again.... More >>
Table for Whom? Table for Whom?
La Table
, December 18, 2002
Laurel Heights isn't exactly known for its fine dining; as a matter of fact, the neighborhood bordering the Richmond isn't known for much. When I... More >>
A-List A-List
As he moves to N.Y., our reviewer reveals an S.F. treasure
, December 11, 2002
About a month ago, I walked to Brooklyn, which didn't take long (I was staying at a friend's place in Manhattan). Still, my dogs were barking by... More >>
Noblesse Oblige Noblesse Oblige
Charles Nob Hill
, December 04, 2002
Having heard about Charles Nob Hill for years, three foodie friends and I decided that when the fall chill finally entered the city we'd give in... More >>
The Zest of Times The Zest of Times
Limón
, November 27, 2002
The quarters were tight at Limón, the Mission's coziest new hot spot, which afforded Rachel and me a discreet view of the stylish young man and... More >>
Burritoless Bliss Burritoless Bliss
Chava's
, November 20, 2002
Last July, when a fire closed Chava's, a home-style Mexican restaurant at 18th Street and Shotwell, its clientele of Latino families and... More >>
Phodown Phodown
New Saigon City, Turtle Tower, Vietnam II
, November 13, 2002
Any number of things could bring a person to the Tenderloin's Larkin Street corridor, a gritty enclave where young bohemians and Civic Center... More >>
Stormy Weather Stormy Weather
Tonga Room
, November 06, 2002
Let me say right off the bat that there's no particular downside to being a restaurant critic. You go out to eat and a few weeks later a check... More >>
Basque to  the Future Basque to the Future
Piperade
, October 30, 2002
I first dined at Pastis, which has now become Piperade, late last year. Judging by my superb braised veal cheeks with winter root vegetables,... More >>
Supper With the Sultan Supper With the Sultan
A La Turca
, October 23, 2002
Go just about anywhere in the world and you'll find that the tastiest, most authentic regional foods aren't found in four-star hotels or... More >>
So-So Chic So-So Chic
RNM
, October 16, 2002
It's been a while since a restaurant made as dazzling a first impression on me as RNM. My friend Rachel and I were seated in the mezzanine, a... More >>
The Times They Are  A-Changin' The Times They Are A-Changin'
Paisley's
, October 09, 2002
A great city is by definition a great restaurant town as well: You can't have one without the other. A great restaurant town is a global... More >>
Spanish Fly Spanish Fly
Lorca
, October 02, 2002
Earlier this year, a friend was kind enough to buy me dinner at a downtown seafood joint. Maybe "joint" isn't the right word: We dined at Aqua, a... More >>
That's Amore That's Amore
Pizza parlors
, September 25, 2002
A friend from North Carolina once told me that one of the more popular snack items in the Raleigh area is something called California pizza.... More >>
A Perfect 10 A Perfect 10
Osha Thai Noodle Cafe
, September 18, 2002
Consider yourself lucky if you have a 10-spot in your pocket: It's all you need to enjoy the splendors of Osha, a late-night Thai noodle joint... More >>
Climbing  the Hill Climbing the Hill
Il Pirata
, September 11, 2002
Now that the 2002 baseball season has been preserved and the Giants just might be headed for the playoffs, it's especially crucial to find an... More >>
Spellbound Spellbound
Incanto
, September 04, 2002
By my reckoning, nothing less than an act of God could prevent Incanto from succeeding in Noe Valley. Granted, it's not hard to make such... More >>
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From the Print Edition

1601 Bar & Kitchen: S.F.'s First Sri Lankan Restaurant Focuses on Small Plates 1601 Bar & Kitchen: S.F.'s First Sri Lankan Restaurant Focuses on Small Plates

The opening of San Francisco's first Sri Lankan restaurant sent a delicious shiver of anticipation down the spines of those who get excited about such things. Sri Lanka, the little… More >>

Rice Paper Scissors: Vietnamese Food Pops Up on Divisadero Rice Paper Scissors: Vietnamese Food Pops Up on Divisadero

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Recent Openers

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Bouncer Tempts Fate at Top of the Mark Bouncer Tempts Fate at Top of the Mark

Let's start with a little history about Top of the Mark, because I rarely lead with facts and I'm feelin' frisky. The hotel was built in 1926 on the site… More >>

Wine Kitchen: Small Plates and Gentrification on Divisadero Wine Kitchen: Small Plates and Gentrification on Divisadero

Divisadero is under construction. At least that's how it feels walking the stretch between Fell and Geary — on every block there's at least one storefront boarded up with plywood… More >>

Pacific Puffs: The Sweet Side of Food Trucks Pacific Puffs: The Sweet Side of Food Trucks

Before we started logging a serious number of hours and calories exploring food trucks, a friend asked what our favorite food truck was. "Oh, the cupcake truck," we replied, and… More >>

Bouncer Seeks Absolution at Locanda Bouncer Seeks Absolution at Locanda

So, like, Locanda is apparently a restaurant. I didn't realize that until I crossed the threshold. Food & Wine listed it as a "must" on Valencia for its cocktails and… More >>

Raise a Pint For Session Beer Month

Don't get us wrong, we love big, bold, "extreme" beers as much as the next beer geek. That being said, sometimes we just want to have a few beers with… More >>

Recent Openers

Dante's Table: This spinoff of Poesia has a Dante's Inferno theme, including a large mural and quotes from the books on the walls. The food is Italian wines and small… More >>

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