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All Aboard

Santa Fe Bar & Grill

By Matthew Stafford, July 19, 2000

I've been a train nut ever since that signal spring day 15 years ago when I boarded the Zephyr at Oakland's decrepit old railroad depot and spent... More >>

Epicure's Delight

Dine

By Greg Hugunin, July 19, 2000

Regardless of when you believe human beings became human -- whether it was at some point during thousands of centuries of random evolution, or... More >>

Here's the Pitch

Twenty Four

By Matthew Stafford, July 12, 2000

When I was a kid growing up in the Western Addition we lived two blocks away from big, bashful Willie McCovey, everybody's favorite Giant.... More >>

Yin, Yang, and the Other

Xanadu

By Greg Hugunin, July 12, 2000

I've long believed the best things in life -- love, health, freedom, a purpose -- are easily recognizable to those who enjoy them. And, since... More >>

Style Over Substance

OakTown Cafe

By Matthew Stafford, July 05, 2000

I went to OakTown the other night with three women versed in the intricacies of haute couture, and their first impressions were positive indeed.... More >>

Home Is Where the Heart Is

Ristorante Mereb

By Greg Hugunin, July 05, 2000

One night, I started feeling a bit homesick even though I was sitting ... at home. This was a conundrum, because when you're homesick, at home,... More >>

The Show Goes On

Flying Saucer

By Matthew Stafford, June 28, 2000

Show biz is an often overlooked factor in the world of pleasurable restaurantgoing. More than service or location or any other aspect except... More >>

The First-and-a-Halfth Floor

Caffe Macaroni

By Greg Hugunin, June 28, 2000

I knew our evening at Caffe Macaroni would go strangely when, after my friend Chloe and I took our seats in a tiny upstairs dining room where the... More >>

West Coasters

Cliff House

By Matthew Stafford, June 21, 2000

"How about we head out to the Cliff House and have ourselves a nice bottle of wine, some shrimp cocktail, a coupla steaks, some French-fried... More >>

Chic Simple Italian

Mazzini

By Matthew Stafford, June 21, 2000

Food, like every profession, has its dynasties. Raising and cultivating raw ingredients, turning them into foodstuffs, and proffering them to the... More >>

Battle Sushi, Part Deux

Amberjack Sushi; Sanraku Four Seasons Japanese Restaurant; Mas Sake; Kabuto Sushi

By Greg Hugunin, June 14, 2000

Awhile back, I had the very great pleasure of reviewing three sushi restaurants over the course of four nights in a sort of head-to-head... More >>

Dolce Far Niente

Absinthe; David's; Ella's; Garden Court; Liberty Cafe

By Matthew Stafford, June 07, 2000

Each day of the weekend has its own ethos. Friday is Friday, thank God, the night to forget the week's myriad disappointments with a... More >>

Small, Good Things

Chez Nous

By Greg Hugunin, June 07, 2000

A funny thing happens when you begin studying other languages: You realize the inadequacies of your own. For example, while studying French in... More >>

The Luddite Eats

Paragon

By Matthew Stafford, May 31, 2000

A few years ago, working at one of those high-tech, low-mirth jobs where everyone smokes and drinks to excess to keep themselves from killing the... More >>

Here's the Beef

Balboa Cafe; Bill's Place; Burger Joint; Mo's Grill; Original Joe's; Pier 23 Cafe; Polkers Gourmet Burgers

By Matthew Stafford, May 24, 2000

It is common knowledge that we Californians are the undisputed masters of the hamburger dominion. Perhaps it's our long tradition of outdoor... More >>

Taking Flight

Fly

By Greg Hugunin, May 24, 2000

Coolness, in the modern, Fonzi-esque sense of the word, has always struck me as being a lot like the Zen concept of enlightenment: If you try to... More >>

En Español

B44

By Matthew Stafford, May 17, 2000

Paris, London, and Rome are cities with monochromatic aesthetics; solid, venerable, and with a millennium or three of accrued grit and grandeur... More >>

Rough Magic

Bocce Cafe

By Greg Hugunin, May 17, 2000

Bocce Cafe isn't the best Italian restaurant in North Beach, nor is it the second best, the third, or even the fourth. It isn't the most storied... More >>

East Is East

Miss Saigon

By Matthew Stafford, May 10, 2000

When I was your basic bomb-beshadowed neurotic kid growing up in the stressful '60s, I couldn't decide which would be worse: being a girl and... More >>

Out on Bail

Gin Joint

By Greg Hugunin, May 10, 2000

Recently, I spent a week traveling the back roads of rural Nevada, perhaps the 10th time I've done this -- a very long story -- so I'll just... More >>

Club Car

Gold Coast

By Matthew Stafford, May 03, 2000

Some anonymous sage once noted that San Francisco, like any great city, isn't a homogenous municipality at all: It's a collection of small towns,... More >>

Eastern Star

Paul K.

By Paul Adams, May 03, 2000

The biggest temptation for a new establishment in Hayes Valley is to take the neighborhood's prevailing aesthetic -- cute, homespun urban chic ... More >>

Blue Cheer

Lapis

By Matthew Stafford, April 26, 2000

If I knew ahead of time that I was about to be stranded on a deserted island and was given the (equally improbable) opportunity to take just one... More >>

All in the Family

Eight Immortals

By Greg Hugunin, April 26, 2000

As the story goes, it began in the sixth century B.C. when Lao Tzu ("The Old Sage," "The Grand Old Master"), a keeper of the imperial archives in... More >>

Movie Palace

Ana Mandara

By Matthew Stafford, April 19, 2000

For years -- generations, even -- it has been the local's prerogative to regard Fisherman's Wharf as one big crowded honky-tonk where... More >>

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From the Print Edition

Recent Openers

A weekly listing of new dining spots around town. To recommend a spot, e-mail fresheats. Bask SF: 42 Columbus (at Jackson), 392-2275, www.basksf.com. North Beach. Basque and Spanish. Cajun House: 308 Fifth… More >>

Recent Openers

A weekly listing of new dining spots around town. To recommend a spot, e-mail fresheats. Akiba: 3141 Clement (at 32nd Ave.). Outer Richmond. Desserts. All Good Pizza: 1605 Jerrold (at Third St.),… More >>

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