It's not the easiest thing to eat without making a mess, but the cioppino at the Old Clam House is basically a hot, spicy maelstrom of crustaceans and crusty bread. (A $34.95 tureen for two is truly an experience. That mound of leftover shells is a testament to satiated gluttony). And non-seafood eaters, if dragged along, should consider the cioppino sauce over pasta with chicken. Neither Bernal nor Bayview, the renovated Old Clam House's location is slightly bizarre, having once been the mucky edge of the bay and now a mile inland, but classics are classics for a reason.