We've always had a soft spot for corn dogs, but all too often they're a disappointment: either flaccid or over-fried, and overwhelmingly salty. The frymasters at Batter Up in the Excelsior have perfected the art of the corn dog. For starters, you don't have to go with a hot dog — you have your pick of sausages ranging from chicken-apple to Louisiana hot link (of course, Evergood all-beef frankfurters are available for purists). Then there's the batter, which is just crunchy enough and faintly sweet from cornmeal. The menu has deep-fried Oreos and candy bars, and there's even a vegetarian option with cheese instead of a hot dog, but the truly brave should order the "Triple Play," a monstrous hydra of a corn dog with three meats inside.