These are exciting times for vegetarian food-obsessives, and not because the number of veg and vegan restaurants is growing. Very quietly, a number of bistros in the Bay Area have shifted their menus away from meat. Study the menu at Outerlands, Plum, Cotogna, Frances, or Contigo, and you'll notice half of the dishes at most contain meat. Our favorite of these half-vegetarian restaurants is Piccino, where Rachel Silcocks is applying the gentlest hand to plant-based dishes. Farro with roasted cauliflower and almond gremolata. Baked semolina gnocchi with black olives and poached egg. Pizzas with roasted mushrooms and creamy stracchino cheese. If you insist on adding meat to the table, you can order a plate of Silcocks' delicate meatballs, but it's possible to cover your table in vegetarian dishes without even realizing you're going meatless.