Christian Geideman, chef-owner of the Japanese yakitori restaurant and shochu bar in Berkeley, uses every molecule he can of the free-range chickens delivered to Ippuku every day. He segments the birds into their various, delicious parts and threads the meat onto skewers. The neck is particularly succulent; so are the hearts, thighs, and oyster muscles. Then he turns the rest into dishes like turnips braised with ground chicken, an exquisite chicken tartare, and ramen floating in a deep-hearted broth. What Geideman makes of the chicken - a bird bred and subdued into ignoble blandness, unloved by chefs, worthy only of nuggetization and neglect - may cause you to rethink the tuna of the land.
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