In 1993, when life in S.F. was still cheap, Red Meat was born from the remains of local outfits the Movie Stars and Genuine Diamelles. Long before "Americana" was a useful marketing term, Red Meat played hard-edged, unadulterated honky-tonk country — they were true descendants of iconic Bakersfield stylists Buck Owens and Merle Haggard. Loaded with genial swagger (and a touch of the sardonic), this quintet of twangsters sang of broken hearts, romantic and occupational frustrations, and tavern life with no concessions to the trends of Nashville, SOMA, or the Mission District. The members aren't snobs, though — occasionally strains of gospel and Bacharach-ish pop make it into their mix. These Bammie winners celebrate their 20th anniversary this Saturday at Slim's.