Katharine Zacher, who runs the kitchen at Bruno's with partner Ryan Ostler, has worked as a pastry chef at Boulevard, Quince, and Slow Club. So you know that when she makes a buttermilk biscuit, it's going to be good enough to shame the Pillsbury Doughboy. Handle the nubbly, oven-gilded lump as though it were a Fabergé egg, because you'll crush it with the slightest pressure. Gently peel off a flake, releasing a puff of steam, and drop a dab of honey butter onto the feathery surface to melt. The French may have their croissants au beurre, the Turkish their thousand-layer filo pastries, but the moment you pop the warm, airy biscuit in your mouth, you won't envy them a damn thing.
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