Best Chinese

Koi Palace

They line up on weekends here for dim sum (also available, with shorter wait times, for weekday lunch), but we much prefer dining here at night. You're greeted by a 1,500-gallon array of tanks filled with fresh fish and shellfish as you enter, but that covers only one page of the 18-page menu. Don't miss the crackling-skinned suckling pig, either a plateful or an entire roast beast (for $190). If you like the ritual of making little sandwiches out of the equally crisp, lacquered skin of Peking duck, they do a textbook version here (spring a little extra to get a side dish of sautéed minced duck meat in lettuce cups). We've never had a more fragrant drunken chicken, nor sweeter, meatier gailan (Chinese broccoli). And the big, noisy room features a huge draped skylight, a pond full of namesake koi, and a burbling fountain topped by a big tea pot symbolizing the more than a dozen different teas available here.

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