Mention to a friend that you just visited Shauna Des Voignes' pastry stand in the back of Local: Mission Eatery, and their eyes will go vacant. “Did you have that thing?” they'll sputter. “That crème brûlée thing?” That thing, a name few people can remember, is something Des Voignes calls “pomme d'amore”: a high-lipped golden round of pastry, with the center filled with a pool of rum custard capped in a thin, transparent pane of burnt sugar. The pastry seems to implode when you bite in, custard sluicing into the mouth, carrying with it the feathery flakes of disintegrating pastry and nanometer-thin shards of sugar. Rich and not heavy, the pomme d'amore is impossible to set down after the first bite. And if you ask for “that thing,” the counter staff will know exactly what you're talking about.
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