There's nothing new about fusion cooking; fish and chips, Belgian chocolate, the fiery curries of India, and the tomato-based dishes of the Mediterranean are just a few examples of post-Columbian culinary intermingling. Fusion doesn't often reach the ethereal heights attained at Cafe Kati, however, where India, Japan, and Southeast Asia meet France, Italy, and the great American farm belt to startlingly tasty effect. Crisp little tacos are stuffed with seared ahi, local Dungeness, and a dollop of wasabi; flaky American black bass is dusted with cumin and cardamom and served with juicy California tomatoes braised with mustard seeds and pink peppercorns; pork tenderloin fillets are rolled in prosciutto, stuffed with rosemary goat cheese, and served with leek-studded mashed potatoes. Kirk and Tina Webber's 10-year-old restaurant still strikes a perfect balance between Eastern spice and Western savor.
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