If the kid in Good Bye, Lenin! could have transported his bedridden East Berlin mom, who emerges from years in a coma after the Wall has come down, to Walzwerk, she would have felt right at home in the kitschy, eccentric thrift-shop décor, in which everything — the signage, the photos of Marx, Engels, and Lenin that decorate the dining room — contributes to the illusion. But the delicious food is miles better than most of what you could have dined on not only in the old East Berlin, but also in the new reunited Berlin. The potato pancakes are plump, lightly crusted, mashed-potato cakes; the sweet matjes herring are combined with apples, onions, and pickles in a tasty sour-creamed salad. A light and crisp schnitzel comes with frilly purple kale and excellent mashed potatoes. The chicken, stuffed with bacon and apples, is juicy under its creamy, dried-cherry sauce. Sauerbraten wittily sports raisins in its winy sauce. There's a short but well-chosen list of German wines and beers. If you think you don't like German food, this is the place that'll prove you wrong.
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