Best New Chinese

Bund Shanghai

Bund Shanghai is not just a wonderful Shanghai-style restaurant, but also a wonderful Chinese restaurant in, of all places, Chinatown. Subdued modern decor (flying-saucer-like light fixtures, pale contemporary framed flower prints on the yellow walls) puts the emphasis on the food. You should try the superb xiao long bao (soup dumplings), as well as an even lighter version with crab-and-pork stuffing. Shanghai bread (mantou) comes steamed or fried, with a side of sweetened condensed milk for dipping. In addition to such specialties as shrimp stir-fried with egg and yellow chives, lion's-head meatballs, steamed bacon with vegetables, and red braised pork, Bund Shanghai does a General Tso's chicken (sans any neon-colored sauce) that will change your mind about the often-ridiculed made-in-America dish. What better assurance that you can run riot through the huge menu?


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