You eat very well indeed at Quince, a charming, small, Italianate neighborhood restaurant of high ambitions. But the pastas reign supreme. They change frequently, but if tajarin is on the menu, don't miss it. It doesn't look like much on the plate: a tiny, tangled haystack of the thinnest, most fragile tagliatelle imaginable, shining with butter and topped with a bit of fresh sage. But it's the apotheosis of flour, egg, and water. The simplest dishes are the most difficult to make, and this is the pasta of a master. Once you've tasted it, you'll never forget it.
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