While the tanks full of strange, hideously ugly creatures that grace the front of Kim Thanh might scare away some, they draw in seafood-savvy diners with the promise of the unique and delicious. The geoduck clam may look freakish, with its comically tiny shell popping open around its fleshy body and long, wrinkled siphon that some compare to an elephant's trunk. But this bivalve's flavor and texture are to be prized, and no one makes a more appetizing case for geoduck than Kim Thanh. Whether it's served up as thin, glossy slices of sashimi, steamed with soy sauce, battered and fried, or stirred into soup, the geoduck here is done all kinds of right. They even make it look pretty on the plate — no easy task.
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