Best Pop-Up That Became a Brick-and-Mortar

Del Popolo Pizza

Considering which pop-ups make the leap to a full-time restaurant, this was probably inevitable. But when Del Popolo — the mobile wood-fired oven in the gunmetal-gray shipping container truck — opened up on Nob Hill, it greatly expanded the menu into antipasti, with a well-put-together wine list on top of it. Now, along with margheritas, biancas, and house-made sausage pizzas, you can tear into vegetable ragus, burrata, and house-cured coppa. Greater varieties notwithstanding, the pizza — now blasted in an oven that's beautifully tiled and never at risk of a parking ticket — is much the same as it ever was, thin Neapolitan slices that come four slices to a pie. And there's dessert: Both the Nutella ice cream and the chocolate pot de crème with sea salt are worth your attention. And neither would last five minutes on the truck without liquefying.

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