This week's review is of Atelier Crenn, ex-Luce chef Dominique Crenn's small, personal restaurant in Cow Hollow. It is a restaurant that perplexes as much as it enchants. Where a thousand chefs call their food “local and seasonal,” Crenn sources most of her produce and meats (someday, she hopes to hit 100 percent) from a single farm, and composes many of her dishes as landscapes ― like the “winter garden,” above, with micro root vegetables, toasted nut and quinoa soil, and goat-cheese “snow.” When a dish succeeds, it succeeds on more levels than most other cooks ever attempt. A dinner at Crenn's restaurant is, perhaps, as close to a kaiseki meal as a Western restaurant will come.
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