It seems fitting that this week's review of Beijing Restaurant's new Outer Sunset branch should come out on a week when snowy patches have appeared in 49 of 50 states. (Are you as envious as I am?)
To a German American guy from the very middle of the Midwest, the restaurant's Northern Chinese food has a familiar appeal ― the pickled cabbage and spaetzle-like “flour balls,” the meatballs and julienned potatoes, the radical simplicity of the flavors. It is winter food of of the homiest kind. It seems a shame to eat there on a merely rainy night.