Burger Bar Sort of Sucks, But the Dessert Burgers are Adorable

We still think the best thing about Hubert Keller's Burger Bar in Macy's (170 O'Farrell at Geary) are the sweeping views over Union Square. But, credit where credit is due, the two dessert burgers on the menu are cute, especially the chocolate ganache version, an exact simulacrum of a cheeseburger, down to the translucent sheet of jellied passion fruit doubling for American cheese. And at $5.75, they're bargains.

Special glazed donuts (sans holes), serve as buns (no longer warm as promised when they reached our table). The chocolate cheeseburger boasted mint-leaf “lettuce” and strawberries. There's a cheesecake version (for vegetarians?) enhanced by a round of caramelized pineapple — much more substantial than the almost invisible pineapple wafer that failed to enhance a savory jalapeño bacon, Swiss cheese, and pineapple burger ($16.35, with onion rings).

Extra points for the swirls of strawberry sauce “ketchup” and the adorable mouse garnish composed of a puff of whipped cream, almond ears, and infinitesimal chocolate dots for eyes and nose. Excellent work, Burger Bar pastry chef! Minus points for Keller's insanely complicated Web site, complete with weird clicks and annoying techno music we could only manage to turn off on certain pages.

By the way, Keller now offers a FleurBurger at Fleur de Lys, inspired, apparently, by the ones at Burger Bar. The menu describes it as “lightly spiced dark chocolate ganache, home-made Beignet, cherry-flavored milk shake, & frozen fennel ice cream 'Pommes Frites.'” The prix-fixe menus there range from $72 to $95. But that whipped cream mouse is priceless.

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